Heading home on a fast train through beautiful Scottish lowlands, blazing sunlight streaming horizontal under clouds and over hills. How I love these isles, especially in the north, where the rocks are darker and the air shimmers with some mystery that’s harder to see in the more civilised south. Feeling full and clear from a


Vienna main station, changing from one fast clean modern train to another, I walk around a corner and suddenly I’m in the midst of hundreds of refugees. A huge queue outside a ticket office. Lots of security guards. Police in threes on every corner. Families slumped in rows, sleeping, eating, talking, gazing at us commuters.